Category: Samsung

Problem: Door unlock failure; lock mechanism stuck, faulty sensor, or wiring issue

How to Fix DE Error

1. UNPLUG 10+ minutes to reset lock.
2. Manually release door: reach through dispenser opening, pull manual release tab on lock assembly.
3. Access lock (remove top panel, then front control panel). Inspect lock latch for debris/damage.
4. Test lock solenoid resistance (should be 150-300Ω). Check wiring harness continuity.
5. Replace door lock assembly (DC64-00100A). Reassemble, verify lock engages/disengages during test cycle.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: Door not locked or door switch fault preventing cycle start

How to Fix dE Error

1. Ensure door fully closed until distinct audible click heard.
2. Inspect door gasket for obstructions (lint, coins) preventing full seal.
3. Remove top panel (3 rear screws) and check door lock wiring harness for damage near hinge area.
4. Test door lock solenoid resistance (should read 300-600Ω between terminals).
5. Manually activate lock mechanism with small flat-blade screwdriver through front panel access hole – should engage smoothly with double-click sound.
6. Replace door lock assembly DC34-00028A if solenoid open-circuit or mechanism binding.
7. If lock tests good but error persists: replace main PCB DC92-01543A (faulty lock relay RL
8. .

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: Door lock timeout; lock fails to engage within 60 seconds

How to Fix LO Error

1. Clean door gasket and lock area of debris.
2. UNPLUG. Test lock microswitch continuity during manual operation.
3. Replace door lock assembly (DC64-00100A).
4. If new lock fails, check main board relay controlling lock circuit.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: Alternative leak detection code on specific Samsung models (WF350 series)

How to Fix LE Error

1. Tilt machine backward to drain base pan water completely onto towels.
2. Locate leak sensor under tub (white disc with 2 wires, center-mounted).
3. Dry sensor completely and inspect for mineral deposits – clean contacts with vinegar-soaked cotton swab if corroded.
4. Check all hose connections at pump, valve, and tub for drips using paper towel test (place towel under connections, run 2-minute fill cycle).
5. Run empty cycle while observing base pan with flashlight to pinpoint leak source.
6. Replace leak sensor DC96-01703A if dry but error returns immediately after power cycle.
7. Address root cause leak before sensor replacement to prevent recurrence – most common sources: pump seal, inlet valve, or tub gasket.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: Motor tachometer/hall sensor signal error – no speed feedback to inverter

How to Fix 3E Error

1. Unplug washer and remove rear panel.
2. Locate hall sensor connector on motor stator (3-wire white connector near motor windings).
3. Disconnect and inspect for corrosion or bent pins – clean with contact cleaner if needed.
4. Measure resistance between pins 1-2 (should read
5. 5-3kΩ), pins 2-3 (same value).
6. Rotate drum manually 360° while monitoring resistance – should fluctuate smoothly without jumps.
7. Replace hall sensor DC31-00138A if open circuit or erratic readings detected.
8. If sensor tests good: check motor windings (U-V, V-W, W-U should read 5-15Ω balanced within 5%).
9. Replace main PCB DC92-01543A if motor and sensor both test good but error returns immediately on restart.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: The washer cannot detect the motor’s speed or position. This is usually caused by a failed Hall Sensor on the motor or a loose wire connection. The machine stops immediately to prevent damage.

How to Fix 3C Error

1. • UNPLUG the washer from electrical power and wait 5 minutes.
   • Remove the rear access panel to expose the motor assembly and wiring harness.
   • Inspect the motor harness connector at both ends for burn marks, corrosion, or bent pins. Clean contacts with electrical contact cleaner and a soft brush.
   • Test motor windings resistance between terminals U-V, V-W, and W-U using a multimeter. All readings must be equal (typically 2-5Ω). Uneven readings indicate motor failure.
   • Test the hall sensor resistance within the motor assembly per service manual specifications (typically
   • 5-
   • 5kΩ between designated pins).
   • Verify ground continuity at motor mounting bolts—ensure tight connection to chassis.
   • If motor tests faulty, replace entire motor assembly using OEM part DC34-00030A: remove drive belt, stator mounting bolts, and rotor assembly. Install new motor, reattach belt with proper tension, and reconnect all wiring.
   • Reassemble panels and run diagnostic test cycle to verify operation.

Problem: Leak detection sensor activated – moisture detected in base pan

How to Fix LC Error

1. Unplug washer and tilt machine 45° backward (use furniture dolly or 2 assistants) to drain base pan water completely.
2. Remove lower front panel and inspect leak sensor (small white disc under tub center with 2 wires).
3. Dry sensor thoroughly with hair dryer on cool setting for 5 minutes – moisture causes False triggers.
4. Trace water source systematically: check inlet valve connections, drain pump housing seals, tub gasket, and all hose connections for drips.
5. Run empty rinse cycle while observing base pan with flashlight to pinpoint leak source.
6. Replace leak sensor DC96-01703A if base pan dry but error returns immediately (corroded contacts).
7. If slow drip found at inlet valve: replace valve assembly DC62-00243A to prevent recurrence.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: Thermistor (temperature sensor) open circuit or short circuit

How to Fix tE Error

1. Unplug washer and remove lower front panel.
2. Locate thermistor mounted on outer tub bottom (white plastic sensor with 2-wire harness).
3. Disconnect connector and measure resistance at room temperature (70°F/21°C = ~12kΩ).
4. Compare to thermistor resistance chart: 32°F=35kΩ, 104°F=5kΩ, 140°F=
5. 5kΩ.
6. Submerge sensor in ice water bath – resistance should increase smoothly to 30-40kΩ.
7. Replace thermistor DC34-00024A if reading OL (open) or 0Ω (short) or unstable fluctuations.
8. Inspect wiring harness for rodent damage or pinched wires near tub mounting points.

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.

Problem: The temperature sensor (thermistor) is broken or disconnected. The machine has stopped heating because it cannot read the water temperature. Replace the sensor if the wiring looks good.

How to Fix TE Error

• UNPLUG the washer from electrical power.
• Remove the lower front access panel to access the tub assembly.
• Locate the thermistor mounted on the front of the outer tub. Disconnect its wiring harness.
• Measure resistance across thermistor terminals using a multimeter set to resistance mode. At room temperature (70°F/21°C), reading should be approximately 10kΩ (±10%).
• If resistance reads infinite (open) or near zero (shorted), replace the thermistor.
• Remove the mounting screw securing the sensor. Extract old thermistor and install new OEM part DC34-00040A, ensuring metal surface makes full contact with tub wall.
• Reconnect wiring harness. Inspect entire harness path for damage near tub movement points; repair if necessary.
• Reassemble access panel. Run hot water cycle to verify temperature readings stabilize correctly.

Problem: Heater element fault or temperature sensor mismatch during heating cycle

How to Fix HE Error

1. Disconnect power and drain tub completely before servicing.
2. Access heating element at bottom front of outer tub (remove lower panel and element cover plate).
3. Measure element resistance between terminals (20-30Ω normal; OL = open circuit failure).
4. Test thermistor resistance adjacent to element (should match main tub thermistor values within 10%).
5. Verify 120V AC present at element terminals during heat cycle using multimeter (measure through access hole).
6. Replace heating element DC47-00013A if open circuit or terminals burnt/corroded.
7. Replace thermistor DC34-00024A if resistance mismatched to actual water temperature (verify with separate thermometer).
8. If both test good: replace main PCB DC92-01543A (faulty heater relay RL
9. .

Still Not Working?

If the replacement part didn’t fix the issue, you may have a wiring problem or main board failure.